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If you live in North America, you’re probably
familiar with electrical outlets that have

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a test and reset button.

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Older ones would have red and black buttons,
but newer ones are usually matched to the

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color of the receptacle.

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If you’ve ever messed about with one of
these and pressed the TEST button, you’ll

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have noticed it sort of POP with the RESET
button sticking out a bit,

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and now the outlet is dead.

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To be fair, it told you to test it.

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But now you have to exert quite of bit of
force to shove that reset button back in place

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before the outlet will work again.

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What is this for?

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Why are they usually only found in kitchens
and bathrooms?

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Will I ask a fourth question?

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And how are they, as the title suggests, life-saving?

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Well, this is called (in Americaspeak) a ground-fault
circuit interrupter, or GFCI.

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Sometimes they’re just called Ground-Fault
Interrupters, or GFIs.

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The rest of the world calls them Residual
Current Devices, or RCDs, and usually they

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aren’t found in the bathroom but in the
service panel protecting the entire circuit

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(and sometimes the entire house).

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These simple devices use a fundamental principle
of electricity to detect when an electric shock

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might be in progress, and can nearly
instantly cut power to the circuit to stop

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said electric shock.

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The US electric code requires these outlets
to be fitted when they are within a certain

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distance of a water source.

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That’s why they’re usually found in the
kitchen and bathrooms, though electrical outlets

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found in other potentially wet locations,
such as exterior outlets or those in a laundry

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room or garage, will usually require protection
as well.

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The theory is that you’re much more likely
to experience an electric shock near water,

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‘cause water tends to conduct electricity
pretty well and thus if your hands are wet

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or a power cord is wet, you’re at a significantly
higher risk of electric shock when touching

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anything remotely electrical.

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Anyway, how do these devices determine if
a shock might be happening, and thus how do

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they know they need to break the circuit?

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Well, part of the answer is in the name.

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The Americaspeak version, ground-fault circuit
interrupter, suggests it can detect some problem

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related to the ground.

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The most-other-places name, Residual Current
Device, suggests current is going somewhere

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it shouldn’t.

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I’ve always felt that both of these names
compliment the other and make the issue easier

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to understand, but on their own they’re
somewhat inadequate.

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Residual current is kinda the result of a
ground fault, but what does that even mean?

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Well, in any ordinary circumstance, the current
flowing out of one side of the outlet will

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exactly match the current flowing back into
the other.

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There should always be a balance in an electric
circuit

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between the hot supply and the neutral return.

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If you plug in a toaster, then for every unit
of current flowing towards the toaster in

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this wire, there is an equal unit of current
flowing away from it in the other.

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The same holds true for the reverse polarity
of the A/C cycle.

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But if I were to get an electric shock from
the toaster, perhaps by being a complete fool

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and sticking a knife down there like you should
never ever do, kids, then some of the current

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coming from the outlet gets diverted through
my body.

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Now, the current leaving the outlet is greater
than the current returning,

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because some of it doesn’t actually return.

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There is now an imbalance between the current
flowing out of the hot wire and back through

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the neutral wire.

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This fault condition is, from the outlet’s
perspective, a ground fault.

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Some of the current is not returning to ground,
or the neutral side.

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Somewhere outside the circuit, there is residual
current.

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See, both names work, but they describe the
problem differently.

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With a ground-fault detected,

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With residual
current detected,

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the device needs to

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interrupt the circuit.

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So it’s a ground fault circuit interrupter.

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So it’s a residual current device.

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As a side note, I like the term ground-fault
circuit interrupter better because it describes

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both what it detects and what it does.

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Even the 25% discount term, Ground Fault Interrupter,
describes both the problem and the action.

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Residual current device is a little incomplete
in describing its mission, but I will grant

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that residual current seems like a less-technical
description than ground-fault.

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But whatever.

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Now, I’ve always found the best way to show
how devices do what they do is to tear one apart.

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Off to the hardware store!

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I’m back!

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So let’s take a look at this thing.

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Like any electrical outlet, is has terminals
for incoming hot and neutral, as well as a

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separate ground.

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But these ones here are a little interesting.

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See, most standard outlets have two pairs
of terminals as well, but they’re connected

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by this little tab.

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This electrically joins the two halves together,
so connecting just one pair of wires powers

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both sides of the outlet, and you easily can
daisy-chain outlets together within a circuit.

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However, if you break the tabs off, now each
outlet is wired separately.

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This is often done so that one pair of plugs
can have two functions, with one side on a

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light switch for a lamp, and the other on
all the time.

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But the second set of terminals on a GFCI
is protected by its internal circuitry.

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That’s why they are labeled LINE and LOAD.

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Incoming power goes into the LINE terminals,
and any outlets farther down the circuit that

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are attached to the LOAD terminals will also
become ground-fault protected.

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The practical upshot of this is that in a
chain of outlets on one circuit, only the

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first needs to be a GFCI receptacle.

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The rest downstream will all get protection,
though there is a limit to how many you can

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string along depending on national and local
electric codes.

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One little curiosity is that most outlets
of this type can interrupt 20 amps, so although

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this is only a 15 amp receptacle, it can be
placed in a 20 amp circuit and provide protection

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for other 20 amp receptacles.

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So, let’s open it up.

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With everything removed we find the four screw
terminals mounted to a circuit board.

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These braided copper wires are carrying current
from the line side through to the load side,

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and the top pair of switch contacts would
normally energize the pins of the actual receptacle,

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which when assembled lie far above the circuit
board.

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This nylon bracket can move back and forth,
and it forms the actual switch that will break

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the circuit in a fault condition.

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It rests in the closed condition with the
help of a latch, and a spring down below will

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keep it in the open position once enough force
is exerted on it to overcome the latch.

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Now, this black cylinder piece is a tightly
wound coil of wire called a solenoid, and

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when current is passed through it it creates
a magnetic field which will force an iron

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plunger out of it in this direction.

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This plunger isn’t visible but it is what
breaks the circuit.

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When the electronics detect a ground fault,
they divert power into the solenoid which

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will push the plunger forward and thus kill
the power.

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But how does it detect current leakage?

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Well, look closely at the path the electricity
takes from the line connections through to

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the switch contacts.

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It goes via these busbars through a round
doo-dad, and if we move this varistor out

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of the way we can see that inside is a coil
of wire.

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This is the sense coil, and if you look on
the bottom you find that this is what is being

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monitored.

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You can see that IC1 has its pins connected
to the output of the coil, with some support

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components peppered in.

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And now we go back to school for a moment.

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You were likely taught that when current passes
through a wire, it generates a magnetic field.

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Likewise, when a magnetic field encounters
a wire, it induces a current in the wire.

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Basic stuff, but this is exactly the principle
that makes the GFCI work.

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See, in a normal condition, whatever unit
of current is going up through this side is

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also going down through that side.

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The current going to the toaster as before,
goes up this side, and the current coming

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back from it goes down that side.

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Of course that’s constantly switching back
and forth due to the fact that we’re dealing

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with A/C electricity, but they are always
opposite directions.

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Both bus bars generate a pretty sizeable magnetic
field around them depending of course on the

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load, but because they are going in opposite
directions the fields cancel each other out.

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That means that normally, no current is actually
induced in the sense coil.

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Even though there are two magnetic fields
being generated, they are of equal amount

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and opposite polarity, so the net result is
zero.

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But if there’s any imbalance at all between
the current going up one side and down the

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other, now the magnetic fields are no longer
in equal opposition and they don’t entirely

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cancel out.

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A tiny imbalance generates enough current
in the sense coil for the electronics to detect,

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and as soon as they do so the solenoid fires
and disconnects the circuit.

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Most devices like this are designed to break
the circuit in 30 milliseconds or less, and

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in the US they are designed to trip with only
5 milliamps of leakage current.

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So what’s the real-world use of this?

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Let me show you.

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A word of caution for the following demonstrations.

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What I’m doing is pretty dangerous.

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Energizing exposed terminals at line voltage
is not something you should casually do.

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Let me do the dangerous stuff, and please
don’t try this at home.

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I’ve wired up this naked GFCI to a plug
and I’ve put a few of things on its output.

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First, a standard light socket with a standard
bulb.

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Second, the same light socket but with an
adapter for an itty bitty bulb, and this one’s

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wired correctly.

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And third, the same light socket and adapter,
but this time it’s wired incorrectly.

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So right now, everything looks good.

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The current exiting the plug always matches
the current returning, so the electronics

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don’t intervene and the light stays lit.

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Now I’m going to screw this little 5 watt
bulb into the top light socket.

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Nothing happens, it just comes on.

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But now I’ll tighten the light on the bottom.

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As soon as it makes contact, the electronics
in the GFCI intervene, firing the solenoid,

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and breaking the circuit.

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But why?

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Well, the second light socket was wired with
a deliberate ground fault.

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I attached its hot wire to the monitored output
of the GFCI just like the the first one, but

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its neutral wire was hooked into the supply
neutral of the outlet, therefore bypassing

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the sense coil.

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This meant that the current that flowed out
through this wire and into the bulb didn’t

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take the same path back to the outlet.

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It leaked out somewhere (in this case just
to here), and the outlet could detect the

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resulting current imbalance through the sense
coil.

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Even though this lamp is really small, passing
only 41 milliamps when it’s lit, the GFCI

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could immediately detect the fault and broke
the circuit.

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The second lamp is analogous to someone getting
an electric shock.

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Current flowed out of the outlet, but it didn’t
make its way back in.

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If this were a human body rather than a light
bulb, said human could be in for a

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shocking experience.

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But thanks to the GFCI, the fault condition
was immediately detected and the current flow

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was stopped.

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Let me show you how fast this happens.

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I’ve disconnected the return wire so I can
just push it against the contacts.

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If I go to this contact nothing happens because
the current is taking the correct path to ground.

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The current returning from the bulb goes through
the sense coil.

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But if I just barely brush against the incoming
neutral connection, causing the return current

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to flow outside the sense coil, it detects
the imbalance imperceptibly quickly.

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And that’s why these are life savers.

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Imagine you’ve plugged your hair dryer into
the outlet in your bathroom, and the cord

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is frayed.

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You might have never noticed it, but if you
touched that wire with a wet hand you’d

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be in for a nasty shock.

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But if plugged into a ground fault interrupter,
almost immediately the current flow would

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be stopped and your life may very well have
been saved.

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And that’s why most modern devices that
are going to be used in the bathroom,

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like a hair dryer,

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are required to have a GFCI
built into their power plugs here in the US.

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There are plenty of older homes without GFCI
equipped receptacles,

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and for these your-hands-will-definitely-be-wet

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scenarios, it’s better safe than sorry.

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And now, some other things!

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First, in the US, these generally are NOT
circuit breakers.

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OK, yes they are, but I mean they don’t
protect against short circuits

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or excessive current.

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They are not a replacement for a traditional
circuit breaker but are instead a supplement

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to them.

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They do not duplicate the overcurrent protection
of your standard circuit breaker or fuse.

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Many GFCI receptacles here in the US have
an LED to indicate...

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something.

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The state that is being indicated is entirely
nonstandard.

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Many, such as these, have a light indicating
that it’s working.

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Presumably that light would go out if the
protection has failed.

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But I’ve also seen plugs where the light
is normally out, but comes on when the outlet

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has tripped!

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And these ones in my kitchen are normally
green and are off when tripped, but when you

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reset them, they briefly illuminate red.

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So probably, they would light up red if the
protection circuit had failed.

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Which does happen.

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That’s why they are all labeled “TEST
MONTHLY”.

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And the neat thing about the test is that
this actually creates a ground fault!

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You might have noticed this resistor apparently
randomly sticking up from the circuit board.

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This resistor creates a path to the incoming
neutral, and pressing the TEST button shunts

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this resistor to the monitored hot.

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So by pressing the TEST button, you are for
real testing its ability to detect a ground

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fault because you actually are creating a
ground-fault internally.

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Even better, the resistor is sized to roughly
match the minimum leakage it’s designed

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to detect.

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So definitely test these periodically, especially
since leaving them in the non-tripped position

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for a couple of dozen years might make them
mechanically seized up and prevent them from

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doing their job should the need arise.

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You might be wondering why we in the US put
these in outlet boxes when others put them

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in service panels.

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Well there’s pros and cons to each method.

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Doing it in the US fashion makes it obvious
if any installation is up to code, as a lack

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of GFCI outlets in a bathroom or kitchen means
an obvious fail.

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It also probably encourages testing if the
device is easy to access rather than being

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part of a circuit breaker panel.

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However, there is a benefit to having this
protection in all areas of the home.

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Sure, an electric shock is more likely in
wet places, but it’s not like no one has

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ever received a shock in their bedroom or
whatever.

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00:13:52,829 --> 00:13:57,819
Plus, in many countries, residual current
devices are combined with circuit breakers,

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forming one device called an RCBO, for Residual
Current circuit-Breaker with Overcurrent protection.

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But putting the protection in the service
panel makes troubleshooting a whole lot harder.

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If something malfunctions and causes a ground
fault anywhere in the circuit, you might be

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spending a long time determining what device
is actually causing the fault.

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00:14:17,680 --> 00:14:21,089
Putting the protection at the outlet makes
it rather obvious.

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One thing that I discovered when tearing this
apart is that the internal contacts are able

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to accomodate a NEMA 5-20 plug.

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00:14:28,149 --> 00:14:33,369
Normally US devices that require 20 amps will
have this plug where one pin is sideways,

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thus preventing you from plugging it into
a 15 amp circuit.

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00:14:36,550 --> 00:14:41,399
The fact that this device has internal pins
capable of accepting this plug, plus the fact

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that it can break 20 amps as most GFCI outlets
can, means the only thing preventing this

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00:14:46,480 --> 00:14:53,730
receptacle from actually being a 20 amp receptacle
is the shape of the holes on the plastic faceplate.

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00:14:53,730 --> 00:14:58,420
Which means that, in the case of this particular
model anyway, they charge you $3 more for

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00:14:58,420 --> 00:15:02,170
the same product with a slightly different
piece of plastic on the front.

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00:15:02,170 --> 00:15:03,170
Yay.

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00:15:03,170 --> 00:15:06,720
And finally, though these are super helpful
at reducing the chance of injury or death

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00:15:06,720 --> 00:15:11,319
due to an electric shock, they shouldn’t
be seen as an excuse to be reckless around

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00:15:11,319 --> 00:15:12,350
electricity.

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00:15:12,350 --> 00:15:17,129
They are a very effective safety net, but
why risk falling in the first place?

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00:15:17,129 --> 00:15:20,690
That said, if you’re a tinkerer who likes
to work on electronics, installing one of

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these in your workshop might be a very good
investment.

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00:15:23,920 --> 00:15:27,060
At the very least, it might spare you the
pain of a zap.

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Thanks for watching, I hope you enjoyed the
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00:15:28,880 --> 00:15:32,459
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00:15:32,459 --> 00:15:34,119
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00:15:41,009 --> 00:15:43,959
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267
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268
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